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The view from our accommodation... |
If there’s one thing I love about the Germans (and to be
honest, there are lots of things I love about the Germans), it’s the way they
utterly embrace and celebrate whatever season they find themselves in. I think
it comes from living in a country where the seasons announce themselves to much
more definitely than Australia. When I’ve been there at Christmas time in the
past, every house is adorned with traditional Christmas decorations – not the
neon-lights-you-can-see-from-space kind (though those can be fun too) but
carved wooden candle-holders in the windows and evergreen wreathes and
beautiful old nativity scenes and gluhwein drunk in the snow at little stalls
at the Christmas markets. This time we were there for spring, and Freiburg was
going to be ready! Every window was decorated with traditional wooden eggs with
delicate painted designs and spring flowers were growing in profusion in every
garden. My prevailing memory of our visit to Freiburg, a university town in the Black
Forest, was the market that was on around the church at the centre of town,
where the locals (and tourists) had gathered to buy fresh, seasonal fruit and
vegetables, local meat, wooden toys and flowers – lots and lots of flowers. We
wandered there quite happily for quite some time, also popping into the church,
which had some pretty stunning wood carvings to see.
To satisfy Will’s need for nature, we headed to the little
town of Triberg, which boasts Germany’s highest waterfall. It’s not one
waterfall so much as a series of cascades that they add all together to get the
overall height, but Will is an absolute sucker for a waterfall of any kind – he
loves extending that shutter speed and getting that blurry water effect (I
mock, but it does make for some beautiful photographs). Fi optimistically bought
a bag of peanuts in the shell on the basis of a claim that you could feed them
to the local squirrels around the falls but we did not see a single squirrel so
I suspect that they are all actually allergic to peanuts and the tourists have
caused a mass anaphylaxis episode and wiped out the entire population. Shame
that. We also found some other pretty waterfalls off the side of the road when we went for a drive to find a cable car up the mountain that turned out to be closed. So we drove up the mountain instead. There were snowy trees, all very proper European. Not to forget that we are shameless tourists, we also went to see the
World’s Largest Cuckoo Clock (which has some competition from the ‘First
World’s Largest Cuckoo Clock’ located nearby). On reflection, probably would
have been better to be there for any other time than two o’clock as we waited
about 20 minutes for what turned out to be a pretty short show. (Doors open,
cuckoo says cuckoo twice, doors close - for the full experience, watch the video below). Hmm.
I should mention that our accommodation for this part of the
trip was a little outside Freiburg, staying in the attic of a most traditional
German cow farm. We had sweet little beds with folk-painted flowers and
delicious traditional German breakfast each morning with milk straight from the
cows. Yum! The farmer spoke no English but that didn’t stop him from having
enthusiastic conversations with us about soccer and his family and his cows (I
think).
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Lindau - cool walled town on Lake Constance on the way to Freiburg |
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Spring flowers at Freiburg market |
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For whatever reason, there is a crocodile statue in a canal in Freiburg |
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Todtnau Waterfalls |
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The World's Largest Cuckoo Clock |
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